Colorado and Japan

I have scattered memories of living in Colorado as a kid, back when my mother was attending schools at Lowry Air Force Base, which has long since closed. My clearest early Colorado memory, though, came when I was 15: a week at the Air Force Academy through a Civil Air Patrol summer program. Something about that place just clicked for me.

Fast-forward ten years, and I made my first snowboarding trip to Colorado, and that was pretty much it. I fell hard for the sport, the mountains, and the state all at once. I introduced a close friend to snowboarding around the same time, and we’ve been partners in crime for nearly yearly winter trips ever since with my stays in Japan being the main barrier when we didn’t meet up. We found a spot we love: great variety of terrain, not nearly as crowded as the big-name resorts, and a lot easier on the wallet.

The town we usually call home base, Silverthorne, looks almost nothing like it did in 2004. The growth has been… dramatic. It always reminds me of Stumpy’s legendary speech from the movie Out Cold:

“This is how it all starts. I’ve seen it all before. I was there. Yeah! It was called the 80’s! Ford was President, Nixon was in the White House, FDR was running this country into the ground. I was bumming in a hole-in-the-wall town in what is now called ‘Utah’. Some fellow from Colorado shows up. Starts making all kinds of so-called ‘improvements’. Before we knew what hit us, the streets were running with latte!”

Stumpy knew. He always knew.

Getting back to Japan felt like exhaling. After landing in Tokyo, two bus rides delivered me to Gotemba, the small town that sits outside Camp Fuji and the last place I was stationed in Japan before retiring from the Marine Corps. I loved that little town when I lived there, and I was eager to see how the base had changed and, more importantly, to catch up with people I hadn’t seen in three and a half years. The reunion did not disappoint.

Of course, within about five minutes of arriving, I was already deep into the foods I’d been missing. Proper Japanese meals and, let’s be honest, an embarrassing amount of convenience store snacks. If you haven’t experienced a Japanese konbini, you’re missing one of life’s genuine pleasures.

After the visits and the eating (mostly the eating), I made my way to Nagano for some time on the snow. I started at Shiga Kogen, one of my favorite ski areas in Japan, and spent two days soaking it in. Then I headed to Hakuba for a day to visit friends from Camp Fuji who happened to be there for the weekend. Japan’s ski areas are their own kind of wonderful: incredible terrain, great atmosphere, and remarkably easy on the wallet compared to anything you’d find back in the States.

After Hakuba and a well-earned yakiniku dinner, I stayed the night in Matsumoto to catch the Matsumoto Castle Illumination. The castle is stunning on its own and it’s one of Japan’s oldest and most beautiful. But the projection mapping and music took it to another level entirely. Add a steady snowfall to the mix, and it was one of those moments you just try to absorb.

One more quick detour back to Camp Fuji for breakfast and some time with the Marines, who were watching the Super Bowl. The time difference makes it a Monday morning affair in Japan, which is a uniquely surreal experience. Then, finally, Tokyo.

Akihabara was first on the list. I was hoping to hunt down some deals on ham radio gear or random electronics, but the neighborhood has changed quite a bit from almost 20 years ago when I first visited. The little shops crammed with components and surplus gear have mostly vanished, replaced by maid cafes, anime shops, and other colorful novelties. There are still a handful of ham radio shops tucked in if you know where to look, but it’s a different place than it used to be. Still worth a wander, just a different kind of wander.

More eating, naturally. Then on to Shinjuku and Shibuya to soak in the atmosphere. If you visit Shibuya, you have to stop and say hello to Hachiko, the famous bronze Shiba Inu statue outside the station. If you don’t know the story of Hachi, do yourself a favor and look it up. Watch the movie with Richard Gere if you want the full experience, but clear your schedule and maybe keep some tissues nearby. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Japan never feels like enough time. Before long it was off to Haneda International Airport and the long flight back home. I’m already looking forward to the next trip before the runway even disappeared behind me.